Dinner Pugliese Style

While most kids were at summer camp, Donatella Arpaia was riding bikes in Puglia with her cousins. "I have such beautiful memories of Italy," says the New York restaurateur. Like the time she was sitting outside while her grandmother and aunts made the tomato sauce for the year. As the pots bubbled away, Arpaia's grandmother cooked potatoes in the coals of the fire, smashed them in a bowl, then mixed in tomatoes and olive oil. "It was probably the best thing I ever tasted," she says. This was long before the Southern Italian region on the Adriatic Sea became a destination for intrepid foodies, and before Arpaia opened Kefi and Anthos, and Mia Dona, a restaurant inspired by her Puglian heritage.

The region's simple, rustic cuisine comes from respecting Puglia's scarce ingredients. Arpaia, like generations of women before her, had to prove that she had the "warm hands" it takes to make great pasta. The test? Mixing flour, water, olive oil, and salt and seeing if the ingredients would form a smooth dough. As the dough came together, Arpaia's great-aunt showed her how to roll the pasta using an 80-year-old umbrella stick. "She had made it so many times, it was like a sense memory," she says. "She worked with such ease and grace."

This easy, graceful spirit is evident in the region's food: Pasta needs only cauliflower, anchovies, and crispy croutons; a little something wild (like dandelion greens) brings the outdoors to the table; and frying makes almost anything—ricotta, pastry—better. "The beauty of Puglian food is its simplicity," says Arpaia. "It's the kind of food you never get tired of."

Smoky Ricotta Fritters

These fritters are a typical snack in Puglia in Italy. Keep in mind that the ricotta cheese needs to drained overnight.

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 1 15-ounce container ricotta cheese, preferably organic
• 3/4 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
• 1/2 cup coarsely grated smoked mozzarella cheese
• 3 large eggs
• All purpose flour
• 1 cup (or more) finely grated Parmesan cheese
• Olive oil (for frying)

special equipment

• Cheesecloth

• Ingredient Tips

  If you can find it, buy a brand of ricotta cheese that has a strainer built into the container, which eliminates the need for draining. Look for smoked mozzarella at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.

Preparation

• Place sieve over medium bowl; line sieve with double layer of cheesecloth, leaving long overhang. Place ricotta cheese in prepared sieve and wrap cheesecloth around ricotta, squeezing gently to release some of liquid from ricotta. Cover and refrigerate until ricotta has released most of its liquid and cheese is dry enough to form into balls, at least 24 hours and up to 2 days. Discard drained liquid.
• Line baking sheet with plastic wrap or parchment paper. Place drained ricotta cheese in another medium bowl. Mix Pecorino Romano cheese and smoked mozzarella into ricotta. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add 1 egg; stir to blend. Place flour in small bowl. Whisk remaining 2 eggs in another small bowl to blend. Place Parmesan in another small bowl. Form ricotta mixture into walnut-size balls (about 1 packed tablespoonful for each). Working with 1 cheese ball at a time, dip into beaten egg, then roll in flour, then coat with beaten egg again. Roll cheese ball in Parmesan cheese, coating completely. Place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining cheese balls. Chill at least 1 hour. DO AHEAD Can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover and keep chilled.
• Pour enough olive oil into large skillet to reach depth of 1 1/2 inches. Lean deep-fry thermometer against side of skillet with bulb submerged in oil; heat oil to 360°F. Working in batches, lower a few cheese balls at a time into hot oil and fry until golden, turning occasionally, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Using slotted spoon, transfer fritters to paper towels to drain. Divide among plates and serve hot.

What to Drink

• Pour an Italian Chardonnay, such as the 2008 Tormaresca Chardonnay from Puglia, with tropical fruity notes (Italy, $12). If you can't find that bottle, try the biodynamic 2008 Alois Lageder "Beta Delta" Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio (Italy, $22). Its blend of aromatic fruit and bright acidity would be delicious with the ricotta fritters.

Toasted Bread with Burrata and Arugula

This appetizer is traditionally made with friselle (ring-shaped rolls). Friselle are baked twice, giving the rolls a very crunchy texture. To soften the bread slightly, it's dipped in water and brushed with olive oil before serving. If friselle aren't available, toasted ciabatta is an easier-to-find substitute.

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 6 3x2-inch pieces friselle or crusty ciabatta bread, halved horizontally
• 5 tablespoons (about) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled, halved
• 1 8-ounce ball burrata cheese, cut into 12 wedges (See description below)
• 1 1/2 cups (about) baby arugula
• Finely grated peel from 1 lemon

Preparation

• Preheat oven to 400°F. Fill small bowl with water. Place bread halves, cut side up, on baking sheet; brush bread with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Toast bread in oven until crisp and light golden around edges, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven. Lightly brush each bread half with water (do not soak). Rub cut sides of bread halves with cut sides of garlic halves.
• Place 2 bread halves, cut side up, on each of 6 plates. Drizzle each bread half lightly with olive oil. Top each half with 1 burrata wedge; sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Toss arugula with 1 tablespoon olive oil in small bowl; sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mound arugula salad atop burrata on each bread half; sprinkle each with grated lemon peel and serve.

What to Drink

• Pour an Italian Chardonnay, such as the 2008 Tormaresca Chardonnay from Puglia, with tropical fruity notes (Italy, $12). If you can't find that bottle, try the biodynamic 2008 Alois Lageder "Beta Delta" Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio (Italy, $22). Its blend of aromatic fruit and bright acidity would be delicious with the bread with burrata.

Burrata

Burrata is a soft Italian cheese made from the milk of water buffalo or cows. It comes as a white sphere similar in appearance to regular mozzarella, but burrata has a soft and oozy center that contains mozzarella and cream. The word burrata means "buttery" in Italian, referring to the cheese's buttery taste and texture.

Because the milky center will ooze out once burrata is cut, the cheese is only sold whole; it is traditionally wrapped in asphodel leaves (similar to leeks) but can also be wrapped in plastic. Burrata is available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores, Italian markets, and cheese shops. It can keep in the refrigerator for a few days; once cut, burrata should be eaten immediately. It is usually served at room temperature.

Orecchiette with Cauliflower, Anchovies, and Fried Croutons

The croutons found their way into this dish thanks to the frugality of Italian cooks. "Puglians don't throw anything out," says restauranteur Donatella Arpaia. "Any leftover bread is used in the pasta."

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 1 large head of cauliflower (28 to 30 ounces), trimmed, cut into 1-inch florets
• 8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 1 pound orecchiette (little ear-shaped pasta) or medium-size shell pasta
• 1 1/2 cups 1/3-inch cubes crusty country-style bread
• 3 medium zucchini, trimmed, cut into 1/3-inch cubes (about 3 cups)
• 3 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 7 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, divided
• 1/3 cup (packed) freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving
• 2 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Preparation

• Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss cauliflower florets with 1 tablespoon olive oil in large bowl to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and spread in single layer on large rimmed baking sheet. Roast until cauliflower florets are tender and beginning to brown in spots, stirring occasionally, about 25 minutes. Cool to room temperature. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
• Cook pasta in large pot of boiling generously salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain pasta, reserving 1 1/3 cups pasta cooking liquid. Set pasta and cooking liquid aside separately.
• Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in large deep nonstick skillet or large pot over medium-high heat. Add bread cubes and sauté until golden brown and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to small bowl and cool. Reserve skillet or pot.
• Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to same skillet or pot and heat over medium-high heat. Add zucchini and garlic and sauté until zucchini is golden brown and crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add cauliflower and anchovies and sauté until heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add drained pasta, reserved 1 1/3 cups pasta cooking liquid, remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1/3 cup parsley, 1/3 cup Parmesan, and Pecorino Romano cheese and toss to coat. Season pasta to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Divide pasta among 6 bowls; sprinkle with fried croutons, remaining parsley, and additional Parmesan cheese and serve.

test-kitchen tip

• Fried zucchini blossoms make a nice garnish for the pasta. Toss the blossoms in flour to coat, then fry them in a large skillet filled with 1/2 cup olive oil heated to 360°F just until they're golden. Drain the fried blossoms on paper towels before placing them on top of the pasta.

Roasted Striped Bass with Fennel, Tomatoes, and Oil-Cured Olives

Some Italian cooks would never combine cheese and seafood, but feel free to grate a little Pecorino Romano over the striped bass before serving.

Ingredients

• 2 cups dry white wine
• 1 cup (about) extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large fresh fennel bulbs with fronds attached, trimmed; bulbs quartered lengthwise, then thinly sliced; fronds chopped and reserved for garnish
• 1 large red onion, halved lengthwise through root end, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
• 3 1 1/4- to 1 1/2-pound whole striped bass, cleaned, gutted, scaled
• 1/4 cup (about) all purpose flour
• 6 large garlic cloves, peeled, crushed, divided
• 3/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, divided
• 1 pound cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1/2 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted, halved

Preparation

• Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 400°F. Boil wine in medium saucepan until reduced to 1 cup, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and reserve.
• Generously brush 18x12x1-inch baking sheet with olive oil. Arrange fennel slices in single layer on prepared baking sheet. Top with onion slices in single layer. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle 4 tablespoons oil over vegetables.
• Rinse fish inside and out; pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle fish inside and out with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Lightly dust outside of fish with flour. Pour enough olive oil into extra-large skillet to reach depth of 1/4 inch; heat over medium-high heat until oil is very hot. Working with 1 fish at a time, add fish to skillet and fry until golden crust forms on skin, about 3 minutes per side. Carefully place fish atop vegetables on baking sheet. Gently stuff cavity of each fish with 2 crushed garlic cloves, then 1/4 cup chopped parsley. Pour reserved wine over vegetables on baking sheet.
• Roast fish uncovered until vegetables begin to soften, 35 to 40 minutes. Scatter tomato halves and olives around fish; bake until fish is just cooked through, about 15 minutes longer. Transfer fish to large platter; cover with foil to keep warm.
• Increase oven temperature to 475°F. Continue to bake vegetables uncovered until tender and tomatoes are very soft and beginning to color in spots, about 15 minutes longer.
• Arrange vegetable mixture around fish on platter. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil. Sprinkle chopped fennel fronds over fish and serve.

What to Drink

• An Italian Primitivo (a red varietal similar to Zinfandel) would be great with the fish and the pasta. Donatella prefers Primitivo di Manduria, a fruity, spicy style of red produced in Manduria, which is a city (as well as an area) in southern Puglia. She suggests the 2007 Feudi di San Gregorio "Ognissole" Primitivo di Manduria (Italy, $18), a balanced wine with aromas of cherries and strawberries and a spicy finish. If you can't find that specific bottle, look for the 2007 Vinosia Salento Primitivo (Italy, $10), a juicy, fragrant red wine with honey notes.

Dried Fava and Potato Puree with Dandelion Greens

For restaurateur Donatella Arpaia, fava beans were an acquired taste. "When I was a child, I hated them," she says. She's come around to the hearty, healthy bean and has always been a fan of dandelion greens, an ingredient that many Italians believe calms the stomach. Timing note: The favas need to soak overnight.

Ingredients

• 8 ounces dried fava beans (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 1 1/4 cups coarsely chopped peeled Yukon Gold potato (about 5 ounces)
• 3/4 cup coarsely chopped white onion
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped peeled carrot
• Pinch of salt
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 1 bunch dandelion greens (10 to 11 ounces), bottom 2 inches of stems trimmed and discarded, greens cut crosswise in half
• 1 garlic clove, peeled, halved
• Large pinch of dried crushed red pepper
• Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preparation

• Place fava beans in medium bowl. Pour enough water over to cover by 2 inches. Cover and let soak at room temperature overnight. Drain fava beans. Peel off outer shell and skin from beans and discard.
• Place fava beans in large saucepan. Add 8 cups water, potato, onion, and carrot and bring to boil, skimming off any foam that rises to surface with large spoon. Reduce heat to medium; add pinch of salt and simmer uncovered until beans are very soft, stirring occasionally and adding more boiling water as needed to keep beans submerged, about 1 hour 45 minutes. Drain. Transfer bean mixture to processor and puree until almost smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer fava bean puree to bowl.
• Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add dandelion greens, garlic, and crushed red pepper; sauté until greens wilt, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place greens atop fava bean puree. Drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil; sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Test-Kitchen Tip

• Keep a pot of boiling water on the stove so you can add boiling water to the beans as needed.

Pastry Twists with Spiced Sugar-Honey Glaze

Restaurateur Donatella Arpaia still remembers the lure of these addictive sweets. "I always got in trouble with my aunt because I would sneak into the kitchen and steal them," she says. Frying the dough in extra-virgin olive oil adds an authentic flavor. You'll need about five cups of oil for frying.

Makes about 20

Ingredients

pastries

• 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
• 1/4 teaspoon (generous) salt
• 1/8 teaspoon (generous) active dry yeast
• 1/4 cup lard, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, room temperature
• 1/2 cup dry white wine, room temperature
• Extra-virgin olive oil (for frying)

spiced sugar-honey glaze

• 1 cup honey
• 1 cup powdered sugar
• 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

special equipment

• Fluted pastry wheel

• Ingredient Tip

  For the best results, dip the pastry twists in a mild-flavored honey, such as orange blossom. An assertively flavored honey will overwhelm the pastry and the spiced powdered sugar.

Preparation

Pastries

• Whisk flour, salt, and yeast in medium bowl to blend well. Add lard and rub in with fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Make well in center of mixture and pour wine into well. Stir with fork until shaggy dough forms. Gather dough together and turn out onto lightly floured work surface. Knead dough until smooth and elastic, adding warm water by teaspoonfuls if dough is dry, about 10 minutes.
• Line large baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 1/8-inch thickness. Using fluted pastry wheel, cut dough into 1 1/4-inch-wide by 4-inch-long strips. Gently twist each strip in center, forming bow. Place pastry twists on prepared baking sheet. Reroll dough scraps to 1/8-inch thickness and cut out additional strips. Twist strips and place on prepared baking sheet.
• Pour enough olive oil into large saucepan to reach depth of 1 1/2 inches. Attach deep-fry thermometer to side of pan with bulb submerged in oil; heat oil to 360°F. Working in batches, fry dough twists in oil until golden on all sides, turning occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer fried pastries to paper towels to drain. Cool completely. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 day ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

spiced sugar-honey glaze

• Line another large baking sheet with parchment paper. Bring honey to simmer in medium saucepan. Remove from heat. Cool until just warm. Whisk powdered sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg in medium bowl to blend.
• Working with 1 fried pastry at a time, dip pastry into warm honey. Lift pastry and shake gently, allowing excess honey to drip back into pan. Roll pastry in powdered sugar mixture to coat. Place on prepared baking sheet. Arrange pastries on platter.

test-kitchen tip

• To avoid coating your fingers in the sticky glaze, use one hand for dipping the pastry twists in honey and the other for rolling the pastry in the powdered sugar mixture.

What to Drink

• Finish the meal with a glass of Moscato, a sweet white wine. Donatella recommends the 2007 Rivera "Piani di Tufara" Moscato di Trani, Dolce (Italy, $15). The wine's spicy raisin notes are complemented by bitter almond flavors and an apricot finish. If that bottle is unavailable, try the 2008 Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato D'Asti (Italy, $16), a sparkling Moscato with stone-fruit flavors.

Source: Bon Appetit Magazine